Care Guide

Z snoozyn · Care

Everything you own, and how not to ruin it.

Seven fabrics, four fills, and one hand-embroidered thing that can't be replaced. Here is what each of them forgives — and the one thing each will not.

Nothing in this range needs a specialist. Almost all of it washes at 30°C on a gentle cycle and dries low. The differences are small, but they are the difference between bedding that lasts five years and bedding that lasts two.

Pale silk fabric falling in soft, low-contrast folds.

The whole guide, in one table

The 30-second answer


If you only read one thing, read the row for whatever is in your hands. Everything below this table is the reasoning.

Showing all 12 rows.

Cloud Cotton

200 TC double-layer gauze

Wash

30°C, gentle

Dry

Tumble low, or line dry in shade

Iron

Don't — the crinkle is the finish

Never

Fabric softener. It flattens the gauze.

Plain Cotton

200 TC percale

Wash

30°C, gentle

Dry

Tumble low; remove slightly damp

Iron

Warm, while damp, for the snap

Never

A hot tumble. Percale shrinks and stays shrunk.

Silky Cotton

300 TC sateen

Wash

30°C, gentle, soft items only

Dry

Tumble low; remove promptly

Iron

Cool, on the reverse

Never

A zip, hook or Velcro in the same load.

Linen

100% French flax, stonewashed, 170 GSM

Wash

30°C, gentle

Dry

Tumble low or line dry; take out damp

Iron

Not needed, not expected

Never

Over-dry it. Bone-dry linen creases hardest.

Mulberry Silk

Grade 6A, 19 & 22 momme

Wash

Hand wash cold, pH-neutral silk detergent — or dry clean

Dry

Lay flat, out of direct sun. Never wring.

Iron

Cool, on the reverse, slightly damp

Never

Biological detergent. It digests protein — silk is protein.

Modal Cloud

~95% modal / 5% elastane

Wash

Cold, gentle, inside out

Dry

Tumble low, or lay flat for the drape

Iron

Rarely needed; cool if at all

Never

Towels, denim or zips in the load. That's what pills it.

Long-Staple Cotton

100% cotton, hand-illustrated prints

Wash

Cold, gentle, inside out

Dry

Tumble low, or line dry in shade

Iron

Medium, on the reverse, off the print

Never

Hot wash plus a sunny line. That fades prints fastest.

Duvet Insert

Micro-denier down-alternative

Wash

Cold, gentle, 2–3 times a year

Dry

Tumble low until bone dry, no exceptions

Iron

No

Never

Cram it in. If it can't move, it isn't being washed.

Pillow & Body Pillow Inserts

Microfibre and micro-cluster fill

Wash

Cold, gentle

Dry

Tumble low, all the way through

Iron

No

Never

Put one away damp. Damp fill clumps and stays clumped.

Cushion Insert

Dust-resistant microfibre

Wash

Machine washable, cold

Dry

Tumble low; reshape by hand while warm

Iron

No

Never

Wash it when only the cover is dirty.

Eye masks & scrunchies

Modal Cloud, and 19 momme silk

Wash

Modal: cold, gentle, in a mesh bag. Silk: by hand.

Dry

Lay flat; modal may tumble low

Iron

No — heat deforms the mask padding

Never

Loose in the drum. Straps find zips.

Monogrammed pieces

Hand-embroidered, London atelier

Wash

Inside out, cold, gentle, in a mesh bag

Dry

As the base fabric, one setting gentler

Iron

Reverse side only, never on the stitching

Never

Bleach or a stain pen near the thread.

30 Wash at 30°C
Hand wash
Do not bleach
Tumble dry low
Do not tumble
Dry flat
Cool iron
P Dry clean

Day one

Before the first wash


New bedding and new sleepwear both want one cycle before they meet you. It relaxes the fibres, settles the finish, and takes the loose dye with it rather than your mattress.

  1. iWash it once, cold, on its own. Especially anything in a deep or saturated colour — give it two solo washes before it joins a mixed load.
  2. iiSkip the softener, permanently. Not just now. It coats fibre, and every fabric here is sold on how the bare fibre behaves.
  3. iiiRead the label in the seam. It is the one instruction written for the exact piece in your hands; this page is the reasoning behind it.
Natural linen fabric falling into deep, relaxed folds.

Stonewashed flax, before its first wash at home. The softening has already started at the mill.

Four fabrics on the bed

Bedding


All four wash the same way. They differ in what happens next — in the dryer, under the iron, and in the drawer.

200 TC · double-layer gauze

Cloud Cotton

The most forgiving thing we sell, and the slowest to dry.

Two layers of long-staple cotton gauze, woven apart so air moves between them. That structure is why it feels weightless — and it is also why it holds water. Wash it cold, dry it low, and let it crumple: the crinkle is the finish, not a fault to be pressed out.

Wash

30°C, gentle cycle

Dry

Tumble low, or line dry in shade

Iron

Don't. Shake it out instead.

It forgivesCreasing, folding, and being slept in all week without complaint.

It won't forgiveFabric softener. It flattens the gauze and the loft goes with it.

The honest bit. Two gauze layers hold more water than a flat weave, so Cloud Cotton takes noticeably longer to dry than percale. Start the wash on a morning you are not hoping to remake the bed by evening.

Cloud Cotton duvet cover on a made bed, showing the crinkled double-gauze surface.
The crinkle after a cold wash and a low tumble. This is the intended finish.

200 TC · percale

Plain Cotton

Crisp on day one. Soft by wash twelve. Both are correct.

A plain percale weave — one thread over, one under, nothing hidden. It arrives with a hotel snap to it and loses that slowly, on purpose. It also comes in 42 colours, which is the other thing worth knowing before the first wash.

Wash

30°C, gentle. New deep colours: two solo washes first.

Dry

Tumble low; take it out slightly damp

Iron

Warm, while damp, if you want the snap back

It forgivesIroning, daily use, hot sleepers, and a great many washes.

It won't forgiveA hot tumble. Percale shrinks with heat, and once it has, it has.

The honest bit. Percale starts crisp and softens over the first dozen washes. That is the weave relaxing, not the cloth wearing out — but if you bought it for the snap, plan on owning an iron.

Plain Cotton fitted sheet stretched over a mattress, showing the flat percale weave.
Percale, ironed. The flat matte surface is the weave, not a coating.

300 TC · sateen

Silky Cotton

The one fabric here that notices what else is in the drum.

A sateen weave floats more threads across the surface than a percale does. Those floats are where the sheen comes from, and where the cool hand comes from — and they are exactly what a zip catches. This is the only fabric in the range that really needs its own load.

Wash

30°C, gentle, alone or with soft items only

Dry

Tumble low; remove promptly

Iron

Cool, on the reverse, if you want it flat

It forgivesFrequent washing. The colour depth holds unusually well.

It won't forgiveA zip, hook or strip of Velcro sharing the wash.

The honest bit. Cool to the touch is not the same as airy. Sateen moves less air than linen or gauze, so if you sleep hot it will feel wonderful for an hour and warm by 3am. Cloud Cotton or linen is the better bet for you.

Silky Cotton duvet cover with a low sheen across the sateen surface.
Sateen catching the light. The same surface floats that shine are the ones that snag.

100% French flax · stonewashed · 170 GSM

Linen

Almost nothing you do will hurt it. One thing is permanent.

Stonewashed before it reaches you, so the softening has already begun. Linen is the lowest-maintenance fabric in the range by a distance: it wants a cold gentle wash, a low dry, and no iron. It is also the only one with a decision baked into it.

Wash

30°C, gentle

Dry

Tumble low or line dry; take out damp and shake

Iron

Not needed, and not expected

It forgivesEssentially everything. It improves for years.

It won't forgiveOver-drying. Bone-dry linen creases hardest and relaxes slowest.

The honest bit. Linen creases permanently, by design. Pressing it flat buys you the time between making the bed and someone sitting on it. If that will bother you, buy the percale instead — we would rather tell you now.

Stonewashed linen duvet cover with characteristic soft creasing.
Creased, as intended. No amount of ironing makes this a flat fabric.

Three fabrics you sleep in

Sleepwear


Sleepwear takes body oil, night sweat and friction that bedding never does, and it takes them in the same three places every night. Wash it more often than feels necessary, and always inside out — the outside is what people see, and the inside is what needs the water.

Ivory fabric gathered into soft creases.

Grade 6A · 19 & 22 momme

Mulberry Silk

Cold water, neutral detergent, no sun. Everything else is negotiable.

Silk is a protein fibre — structurally closer to hair than to cotton — and that single fact is the whole care instruction. Anything that would strip hair will strip silk. Treat it like something living and it will outlast most of the cotton in your drawer.

Wash

Hand wash cold with a pH-neutral silk detergent, or dry clean

Dry

Lay flat, out of direct sunlight. Never wring.

Iron

Coolest setting, on the reverse, while slightly damp — or steam

It forgivesBeing worn often. Silk is considerably stronger than it feels.

It won't forgiveEnzyme detergent, chlorine bleach, direct sun, or drying on a radiator.

The honest bit. Biological detergents are formulated to break down protein. Silk is protein. One wash with the wrong bottle does damage that no amount of careful drying afterwards will undo — and it will not look like damage until the fabric dulls a few washes later.

19 momme mulberry silk robe hanging in soft light.
19 momme silk. Hand wash cold, lay flat, keep it out of the sun.

100% cotton · hand-illustrated prints

Long-Staple Cotton

The prints are the fragile part, not the cloth.

Straightforward, breathable cotton — and the base for the hand-illustrated prints, ric-rac trims and contrast piping. The fibre itself is hardy and will survive most things. The pigment sitting on top of it is the thing worth protecting.

Wash

Cold, gentle, inside out

Dry

Tumble low, or line dry in shade; remove slightly damp

Iron

Medium, on the reverse, keeping the plate off the print

It forgivesRegular washing, children, and being the set that gets worn most.

It won't forgiveA hot wash followed by a sunny line. That pairing fades prints fastest.

The honest bit. Cotton shrinks with heat and the shrink is not recoverable. If a set has ever come out of a hot dryer a size smaller, that was the dryer, not the sizing — and it is the one laundry mistake here that a return policy cannot fix.

Cotton crewneck pyjama set with a hand-illustrated navy zebra print.
Hand-illustrated prints. Wash inside out and the pigment stays where it was put.

The pieces people get wrong

Fills, inserts and accessories


Covers are the washable layer — that is what they are for. The fill underneath needs washing two or three times a year, and needs drying properly every single time.

  1. iDuvet inserts. Cold, gentle. Then tumble low until they are bone dry — not almost. A damp micro-denier fill clumps as it cools and does not recover. If the insert cannot tumble freely in your drum, it is being soaked rather than washed; King and Super King usually belong at a launderette.
  2. iiPillow and body pillow inserts. Cold, gentle, tumble low, dried all the way through. Two at a time balances a domestic drum better than one.
  3. iiiCushion inserts. Machine washable, cold. Reshape by hand while still warm and they hold their corners.
  4. ivModal eye masks and scrunchies. Cold, gentle, in a mesh bag so straps don't find zips. Lay flat, or tumble low. No iron — heat deforms the mask padding.
  5. vThe 19 momme silk mask and silk robe. Hand wash cold with a pH-neutral silk detergent, or dry clean. Lay flat away from direct sun; cool iron on the reverse if needed.

Worth saying plainly. Fills are not fabric and they do not age like it. A pillow insert that has flattened is finished, however clean it is — washing recovers loft that clumping took, not loft that years took.

Hand-embroidered, London atelier

Monogrammed pieces


A monogram is stitched thread sitting on the surface of a finished piece. It washes like the fabric underneath it, one setting gentler, and it has three rules of its own.

  1. iInside out, cold, gentle, in a mesh bag. Every time. The bag is doing real work here — it stops the stitching catching on anything else in the drum.
  2. iiNothing bleach-based or enzyme-based near the thread. That includes stain pens and oxygen powders, not only chlorine.
  3. iiiIron on the reverse only. Never set a plate directly on embroidery; press from behind, through the fabric.

This is the one that can't be undone. Personalised and monogrammed items are excluded from our 30-day returns — they can't be resold, so we can't take them back. On a monogrammed piece a wrong wash is permanent, which is the whole reason for the mesh bag and the cold cycle. When in doubt, wash it by hand.

Not sure how a particular piece was finished? Email support@snoozyn.com before you wash it, not after.

The first ten minutes

Stains


Almost every stain that comes out comes out in the first ten minutes. Almost every stain that never comes out was heat-set by a wash or a dryer before anyone looked at it properly.

  1. iBlot, never rub. Rubbing spreads the stain outward and roughs the fibre — on sateen and modal that mark shows long after the stain has gone.
  2. iiCold water only. Heat sets protein stains permanently: blood, sweat, milk, egg. Cold first, always, even when hot feels more decisive.
  3. iiiWork inwards from the edge so you shrink the stain rather than widen it.
  4. ivOn silk, cold water and a pH-neutral silk detergent — nothing else. No oxygen bleach, no household spray, no salt. If it is a stain you care about, a specialist cleaner is cheaper than a replacement.
  5. vCheck before heat. Wash as normal, then look at the spot while it is still wet. A dryer will set whatever the wash missed.

And the part nobody prints. Some stains do not come out. Old oil, dried red wine, and dye transfer from a stray dark item are usually permanent by the time they are noticed. We would rather say that than sell you a technique that does not work.

Six rules, no exceptions

Never, on anything we sell

These hold for all seven fabrics, every fill, and every accessory. If you remember nothing else on this page, remember this panel.

  • No chlorine bleach

    It breaks down cotton fibre, destroys silk outright, and strips dye from everything. There is no piece in this range where it is the right answer.

  • No fabric softener

    It works by coating fibre. On gauze it kills the loft, on percale it blocks the breathability you paid for, on modal it speeds up pilling. Half a cup of white vinegar in the rinse softens without coating.

  • Nothing above 30°C

    Thirty is the ceiling on every washable piece here. Silk is cold, by hand. Heat is what shrinks cotton, kills elastane and sets stains.

  • No direct sunlight to dry

    A sunny line fades dye and prints faster than years of wear, and it weakens silk. Shade, or a low tumble.

  • No zips, hooks or Velcro in the load

    One open zip will pull threads across a whole sateen duvet cover in a single cycle. Mesh bags exist for exactly this.

  • Don't over-dry

    Everything except the inserts comes out better slightly damp. Bone-dry linen creases hardest, bone-dry cotton shrinks most, and over-dried modal loses its drape.

Between uses

Storage, and the rest in between


Folded white bed linen stacked neatly on a made bed.
  1. iStore it clean. Body oils you cannot see oxidise into yellow marks you can, over a season in a cupboard. Wash before putting anything away.
  2. iiCotton and linen: folded, breathing. A shelf or a drawer, not a vacuum bag — compressed creases set hard and take several washes to release.
  3. iiiSilk: folded, dark, loosely. With acid-free tissue if you have it. Not on a wire hanger; the weight pulls the shoulders out of shape.
  4. ivRun two sets in rotation. Two sets alternating outlast one set washed twice as often, and the resting set has time to fully recover its loft.
  5. vAir the bed before making it. Twenty minutes with the duvet folded back lets overnight moisture leave rather than sit in the fill.

Asked often

Questions


If I only remember one number, what is it?

Thirty degrees. Every washable piece in the range — all four bedding fabrics, modal, cotton, the inserts and the accessories — washes at 30°C or colder on a gentle cycle. Mulberry silk is the single exception, and it wants cold water by hand.

Can I tumble dry Z snoozyn bedding?

Yes, on low, for all four bedding fabrics. Take it out slightly damp rather than running the cycle to completion — it finishes drying on the bed in twenty minutes and creases far less. Silk never goes in a dryer.

Why are you so against fabric softener?

Because it softens by depositing a coating on the fibre, and every fabric here is sold on how the bare fibre behaves. On Cloud Cotton it flattens the gauze that makes it weightless; on percale it blocks the airflow you bought it for; on Modal Cloud it accelerates surface pilling. If you want softer water and softer cloth, half a cup of white vinegar in the rinse drawer does it without the residue.

Do I really need to wash before first use?

Yes. One cold cycle relaxes the fibres, settles the finish and takes any loose surface dye with it. Wash new pieces in deep or saturated colours on their own for the first two washes.

Is your fabric OEKO-TEX certified?

No. We work with audited factories — the audits are on file — and we ship in recyclable, plastic-free packaging. We hold no third-party fabric certification, and we would rather say so than imply one.

How often should the inserts be washed, rather than the covers?

Covers and pillowcases weekly; the fills two or three times a year. The covers exist so the fills don't have to be washed often, and every wash a fill takes costs it a little loft. Dry them completely when you do.

How do I wash a monogrammed set?

Inside out, cold, gentle, in a mesh bag; dried one setting gentler than the base fabric; ironed on the reverse only, never on the stitching. Personalised items are excluded from returns, so when in doubt, wash it by hand.

Something has gone wrong. Can I return it?

We accept returns within 30 days on unworn items with tags attached. Personalised and monogrammed pieces are excluded. If you think a piece has failed rather than been mis-washed, email support@snoozyn.com with a photo — we would rather look at it than guess. Full terms are on Shipping & Returns.

Still choosing

Care is easier when the fabric suits you in the first place.

If any of the honest caveats above changed your mind, the fabric guide compares all four bedding weaves side by side — and the builder lets you mix them across one bed.

Care guidance on this page matches the sewn-in label and the care line on each product page. Where they ever differ, follow the label on the piece in your hands. Questions: support@snoozyn.com.